I started Walter by designing him in fusion 360, I really love this program for designing its great and its free for hobbyists. I am experimenting with its more organic modeling features but, it really isn't designed for that purpose keep in mind. You can check out my Monster Hunter Bone Sword for my first organic modeling run attempt in Fusion.
After I had walter looking all kool and dented and all his neat parts all done I took him to cure and prepared him to be printed on my ultimaker 2+. Some of his parts were printed with supports and others I printed flat in halves, its easier sometimes easier to do this then just piece the halves together. All the parts were printed in PLA at a 0.06 (60 micron) layer height.
Now walter was ready for a light primer coat I used grey Krylon primer for this, this layer of primer is so I can see any details that need fixing before I do a final prime and paint.
So I apply a light coat of primer then let it dry for an hour or so then go back to sand and fill anything that needs it then prime again with another light coat if everything looks at this point I do a final sanding. Its at this point here that you would do wet sanding if you are going to and normally I would do this but I was happy with how he looked so I skipped that step and just went straight to a final Primer coat and began painting Walter.
Walter was interesting to paint I tried out something new. I decided to try out masking fluid, I had never used it before on something like this.
I started by applying some silver paint over Walter's entire body, I did about 5 coats of silver paint in thin layers until I was happy with the uniform color of the paint. Its usually good to apply paint in thinner layers and build them up then to just glop it on.
After that I applied my masking fluid the the areas I was going to want to see my metal show through. While letting the masking fluid dry I was trying some paint colors to see what I liked, I ended up mixing silver with brown to create a sugar brown color like a metallic brown you might see on a car and applied that after the masking fluid had dried.
I only applied this on cert limbs because I didn't want every part of his body the same color. In the end the metallic brown was kind of wasted on most of the model simply because I dulled the whole paint job with a dust and dirt coat so you can't really see that it was even metallic to begin with.
After about another 4-5 coats of the sugar brown and once it tired completely I removed the masking fluid carefully, as I did not want to peel my paint off with it. You kind of rub it in a circular motion and it just peels off.
I also used a brass colored paint for the hands and some of the joints even in a few places on the tank and head.
This is a technique I figured out during my 40k days, and after some experimenting came up with a method that worked for me.
I mix up these ingredients
- PVA Glue
- Matte Medium (Liquitex)
- 2 different grits of sand
- water, to thin the mixture as needed
- Paint (optional)
after that you just mix well and apply the paste where you want to have that busy gritty rust texture it also works well for caked on mud and sludge effects. I also tint mine with a little acrylic paint so that I have a good base rust color, I used a medium brown with some pumpkin orange you could also us a red color.
once that dried, it takes a couple of hours before its hard enough to really work with, you can paint you other colors on top. I dry brushed a little yellow and orange and red then washed with a brown ink and then added a bit more orange and I was done my rust.
I also took those colors beyond my 3D rust texture and carried the lighter rust in other areas around the heavier rust spots. I used a technique where you leave your brush quite wet and dab the paint on in spots to create a build up in layers.
I did the same technique with the brass but used a light cool blue and a turquoise blue to create the corrosion on the brass and then used a little off-white for calcification.
Thats pretty much it I just used this technique in layers all over the model till I reached the textures and colors I wanted. All in all it took me about 2 days worth of painting and weathering.
After had some beautiful pieces printed out on my machine, we started to remove any supports and did a lot of sanding. A Lot of Sanding!! This is the key to making any good model is the prep work before painting the smoother the surface the better. Now I did not wet sand this so I stop at about a 400 grit sandpaper, I could have gone that extra step I just chose not to. Also my nephew he got tired of sanding after a while so I helped him a bit, but he was happy going as far as he with his sanding work and I still think it turned out excellent.
I glued together most of the pieces with Plastruct Weld which is a plastic cement and it works really well, some pieces I used the super glue in the purple bottle.
After all the halves were glued I did not blue the parts together yet, the reason for this is I like to do more filling and sand on the pieces separately and even then I don't glue everything together as I like to paint certain parts separately, it makes like easier when trying to get into tight spots with a brush, I learned this form painting 28mm scale models which are very tiny.
I also used called Plastic Putty" which is just what it sounds. it come in a tube and you squeeze a little out kind of like caulk if you have ever used that before. I apply it to cracks and seems then let it dry and use a light sanding sponge to sand it smooth.
Painting the Base
I let the glue on the base dry over night and then base coated and let that dry all morning, then started painting the base. I didn't need to do any sanding on the base, though thats not to say that you wouldn't ever have to do this, but because I sculpted the base it was near perfect this is the benefit to using a product like this. The Epoxy clay is sand-able and paintable after it dry as well.
I wanted to have a general kool feeling to the rocks so I just worked up layers of gray and blue. I started with a basic dark grey then worked up to some lighter grey colors and did some washes with a grayish-blue color which I mixed ups by adding some dark blue to a grey color.
After that I worked up a few more highlights also with lighter version of the grey-blue and some off-whites to finish it off.
Funny thing is people will almost always ask me if I use dirt in my miniatures, doesn't it already look like dirt? Well yes and no, the easy answer is real dirt looks, well, fake on a model... Unless its a lifelike dioramas or a war scene then usually you have to tint or paint the dirt to match your model, sometimes you can get away with the dirts natural color but in most cases you need to paint or recolor it.
The real problem comes in with your scale the closer you look at something the less real it appears so for that reason it needs base coat, washes and highlights.
I always start with a medium brown then wash the whole thing with a dark brown or black ink wash or watered down paint then I build up at least one more brown then a highlight usualy a tan or orangey brown color. Its really that simple.
Then I had to do the grass layer on top so I basically us only two colors here a leafy green and a light pale green then I just added white to the leafy green to get about 4 different shades starting with the darkest and working my way up to the highlights.
And that's it.
The last thing I needed to do was seal in my work with a clear spray or lacquer once I did that I let it dry for a couple days before I used a product called realistic water this is a gloss resin like substance that I applied to the eyes to create lenses after which once it dried I added a layer dust to to make them look like they had collected a film on them from sitting there for years.
I let the all that sit over night before I started again in the morning with it, in the meantime I started working on a base for my model, I wanted him sitting on some kind of rock in a grassy field.
For this I started with a piece of cardboard and measured out a 5 inch circle which I then glued cork to. I just used sheets of cork that I broke into different pieces and used white PVA glue to glue them down to the template and to each other. I unfortunately didn't take pictures of this part.
After I had a good base and tested my robot pieces on it I used a product form smooth-on called "free-form epoxy sculpt" its a t part epoxy clay and it acts a lot like real clay would, you can even use water with it to smooth it out. This stuff is amazing and it goes a long way for these kinds of projects.
I let that dry until the next day as well. then I applied ground up cork that I make myself to act as turns or gras and dirt.
I mixed up some PVA glue cork and sand to make a turf then one I had it all applied down I dropped some more cork over the top on the wet glue and sand to create a top layer. and let that sit to dry.
Thanks for checking out Walter I will have some more specific tutorials and techniques later on, those will be linked on the main page of the site once their up, also if you have any questions or would like me to put together a specific tutorial on a technique you want to know more about drop me a line.